On a Search for the Perfect Project Bag

In my last post, I waxed poetic about fibres (I am aware that I am embracing my inner nerd on that subject).  This time, I wanted to write about another subject close to my heart: the search for the perfect project bag.  

Fair warning:  the answer is not here.  What I have realised,  however, is that there is a perfect project bag/receptacle for each project, just not necessarily one bag to suit every project.  

Crates

Let’s start with less of a ‘bag’ and more of a ‘receptacle’.  I favour  crates that measure around 12” by 9”, and are 6” deep.  Mostly I buy plastic ones from Ikea, but I’ve picked up similar in B&Q and The Range. These are rigid, open ‘baskets’, that are easily moved from room to room, hold all the bits of yarn/notebooks/hooks/stitch markers/tape/scissors in one place and, when not in use, store easily in my works-in-progress cupboard.  For a really big project (think large throws), I might upsize to one of the lidded crates that I inherited from my mum.  She had a garage full of these, stacked up full of nothing very much.  They each measure about 13” by 9.5” and are 8” deep.  Not hugely bigger than my open crates, but enough to store the bigger project.  I also have a range of felt crates, in various sizes.  These I decorate with freeform crochet (well, why wouldn’t you).

Laundry baskets

Also more in the ‘receptacle’ line, I favour a nice basket.  My mum had a vast collection of wicker baskets, which I don’t find comfortable to use as the wicker can snag on your work.  I like a nice coiled rope basket (Ikea sell them).  Many of the supermarket and homeware stores sell laundry baskets in cotton or linen, often with lids, which would work well too, especially for the bigger projects.

You could crochet your own, smaller basket.  Chunky yarn and a smaller hook makes a very rigid basket for smaller projects. (Also made my hands ache, so I don’t make these very often).

Bags

The ‘go to’ item for any project.  Who amongst us hasn’t used the nearest carrier bag in an emergency for stuffing all that we need to bring a project along with us on holiday.  You have spent money on the pattern and fibre, you’ve invested time in the project – it deserves better protection than being stuffed in a crinkly plastic bag.  I favour a large canvas bag with a drawstring top to keep my precious project clean on my travels.  On a holiday recently, when my project outgrew the bag it had started off in, I purchased a very colourful, cheap, shopping bag because the colours made me smile.  

You could, of course, crochet your own project bag.  I made Toni Lipsey’s pattern for her Square One Project Bag from scrap yarns and use it for smaller projects when I’m travelling, or decorate a hessian bag with freeform crochet.

Lay Flat Bags

Who hasn’t drooled over the big name leather project bags – I know I have.  However, I can’t justify spending £100 on a bag when I would rather spend the money on fibre.  I did watch a video blog of someone comparing fake leather alternatives to these expensive bags, which set me off on my own research of ‘lay flat wash/cosmetic bags’.  I settled on a quilted polyester travel bag from Amazon that cost me £14.  I’m delighted with it – it opens out to lay flat which means  I can see everything easily, and it zips up neatly into a compact shape that is easy to carry. 

One of the advantages of having dedicated project storage is that you can put a project aside when it isn’t working for you, without losing the pattern, yarn, hooks and notes. Then, when you’re ready to revisit it, everything is still together. There isn’t a single “best”  project bag —only the best one for the project you want to make.  Perhaps that is why I’m having fun exploring the options.

If you’d like to see more of my ‘good ideas’, I share regular updates every Top Tip Monday on Facebook and Instagram. I’d love for you to join me there.

Until next time, happy crafting!

Sue

Why Fibre Matters More Than You Think

In my last post, I revisited my very first published Tunisian crochet pattern and started experimenting with a redesign. This week, I thought I’d step back and look at something that influences every project before the first stitch is even made: the yarn itself.

Two crocheters can follow exactly the same pattern and end up with finished pieces that feel completely different. The fibre you choose affects drape, warmth, stitch definition, durability and even how enjoyable the project is to make.

Cotton

A natural plant fibre, cotton is soft, absorbent and biodegradable.  It resists pilling, but has a tendency to stretch when wet. Cotton has very little natural elasticity, so it doesn’t spring back in the same way as wool.  One of my favourite cotton yarns is King Cole Cottonsoft DK, and I’ve used this quite a lot to make blankets and throws.  It has a lovely weight, drapes well, and is very soft next to the skin.  The only thing I’m always careful about is when I wash or block the design – after immersing in water, always lay the item out flat to dry.  Some of my cotton blankets are large, and if I hung them out on a line to dry they would stretch horribly. 

Wool

A natural fibre from sheep, wool is the traditional choice for knitting/crocheting. It is warm and durable, however it can be tricky to wash – who hasn’t shrunk a jumper by washing it too hot? Since I started spinning my own yarns, I have come to understand that ‘wool’ is a really broad term.  It applies equally to a strong, rustic yarn spun from a Herdwick sheep to the fine, soft yarn spun from Merino.  Personally, my own favourite to spin is Corriedale, usually in a blend with silk. One of my favourite commercial wool yarns is a Blue Faced Leicester from World of Wool in their Lowland range.  I’ve just finished a shawl design using this yarn, which drapes beautifully.  I’m thrilled to announce that the pattern will be in the World of Wool Yarn Advent Calendar 2026

Acrylic

Acrylic is a synthetic fibre that is lightweight, soft and durable. It often comes in amazing colours and is usually less expensive than other fibres. The synthetic fibre is derived from petroleum. It is less ‘breathable’ than natural fibres, and is prone to pilling.  I will use yarn with a little acrylic in it, because premium non-acrylic yarns are just too expensive to use exclusively.  These days I very rarely buy 100% acrylic yarn. It has its place—particularly where affordability, easy care or allergies are important—but I find I much prefer working with natural fibres. 

Bamboo

A sustainable fibre from the pulp of the bamboo plant, softer than cotton and hypoallergenic. Bamboo yarn has a glossy finish and this can make it feel quite slippery when working. It is also more expensive than traditional yarns, and finished items can shrink so this needs to be allowed for. I have only recently started working with bamboo.  I like the finished feel of it (see my Strata Kimono), but it does take a little concentration to work with as the sharp point of the Tunisian crochet hook can split the yarn if you aren’t careful.  That being said, the finished weight and drape are well worth a little extra effort.

Alpaca

Alpaca is a natural animal fibre that is softer than sheep’s wool and less prickly. It resists pilling and is hypoallergenic. Alpacas can be white, black or shades of brown, and these natural colours are lovely. The fleece can be spun into heavyweight or fine yarn.  One of my absolute favourites, it has a wonderful softness and warmth without the weight, which makes it a joy to wear.  Commercial yarns such as Drops offer a 4ply alpaca, or their aran yarn is an alpaca/wool mix.  At Wonderwool Wales I found the lady who runs an alpaca farm and markets her alpaca yarn under Penrhallt Alpacas, and closer to home is Homefield Alpacas in Louth.  Needless to say, I can’t walk past an alpaca seller without buying something.

There isn’t a single “best” fibre—only the best one for the project you want to make. The more you experiment, the more you’ll discover which yarns suit both your designs and the way you enjoy crafting. 

If you’d like to see more of my fibre nerd showing, I share regular updates every Fibre Tuesday on Facebook and Instagram. I’d love for you to join me there and see what yarn I’ve been reading the labels of each week.  I’ve also put up a (possibly) helpful free guide to a common range of fibres on my website.  If today’s post has sparked your curiosity about wool and fibres, I’ve recently published a Substack article about learning to spin yarn and how it changed the way I think about fibre. You can read it here. 

Until next time, happy crafting!

Sue

Rediscovering an Older Tunisan Crochet Pattern

In my last post, I shared some of the current  projects on my loom, wheel and hook. One of the joys of being a designer is looking back at where it all began. Sometimes you discover just how much you’ve learned. Sometimes you find a design that still makes you smile, and sometimes you realise an old favourite deserves a second chance. I’ve been writing and publishing patterns for crochet and Tunisian crochet since December 2020, and currently have over 70 active listings across Etsy and Ravelry, with some free patterns on my own website.  This week, I’m revisiting the very first Tunisian crochet pattern I ever published. 

On the origins of a Tunisan crochet blanket

The very first pattern for Tunisian crochet that I ever published was, not very imaginatively, called the Tunisian Bobble Blanket.  It was a relatively simple pattern that involved, unsurprisingly, lots of bobbles and the lovely Honeycomb stitch that helps counteract the curling that is often an issue with Tunisian crochet.  

How it started

Back in 2020, in the midst of lockdowns, sometimes yarn became quite tricky to get hold of.  My mum had a large stash of yarns that she needed to get rid of, and so I acquired nine 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Pure Cotton, an Aran weight yarn that had ceased being made in the 2010s, so clearly my mum had stored it for some time.  It was in a soft sage green colour, not one I would have chosen but, as I say, I was not really in a position to be picky.

Armed with little more than enthusiasm and a handful of Tunisian crochet stitches, I started designing a small blanket.  I wrote the pattern, checked it carefully, and published it to Ravelry for free (because hello lack of confidence).  I never imagined how many people would download it. It remains one of the most popular patterns I’ve ever released. 

Tunisan Crochet Pattern in review

Size-wise, the blanket works as a small throw, and can easily be made bigger by working more pattern repeats.  I like that the pattern is asymmetric, and that the bobble stripe down one side adds interesting texture.  The main body of the blanket, worked in honeycomb stitch, drapes beautifully.  What needs improving is the edging.  For some reason, I worked the outer borders in Tunisian Purl Stitch, which curls greatly, and then had to counteract that by working quite a chunky edging in standard crochet.  Looking at it now, I can clearly see how much my Tunisian crochet technique has improved over the last five years.  ‘Work the end stitch’ is the instruction at the end of most rows of Tunisian crochet, but where to insert the hook is not always clear.  You can almost see my confidence growing across the blanket. By the end I’d finally worked out exactly where to place that elusive end stitch. 

For the future

Revisiting older designs reminds me that creativity is a journey. Every pattern captures what I knew at that moment, and each one has taught me something new. The Tunisian Bobble Blanket may have been my first published Tunisian crochet pattern, but I’m looking forward to giving it the update it deserves and sharing it with a whole new generation of crocheters. 

If you’d like to see more of my older designs, I share regular updates every Throwback Thursday on Facebook and Instagram. I’d love for you to join me there and see what I’ve been making each week.

Until next time, happy crafting!

Sue

What’s on My Hook, Loom and Wheel

In my last post, I shared some of the lessons I’ve learned throughout my crafting journey. This week, I thought I’d open the door to my studio and give you a glimpse of what’s currently keeping my hands busy.

If you’ve read my blog for a while, you’ll know that I rarely have just one project on the go. When I first learned to knit and crochet as a child, my Mum insisted that I finish one project before starting another. It was a sensible rule… but one that didn’t survive into adulthood!

These days, I have works in progress strategically dotted around the house so that, whatever the mood or the weather, there’s always something waiting for me.

On my loom this week

Recently I’ve been weaving with a lot of aran and DK handspun, so I fancied a change. This project uses commercial fingering-weight sock yarn, and I decided to challenge myself by warping my loom with the finest heddle I own.

I’ll admit, the warp took far longer than I’d expected. Setting it up became a project in itself, completed over several sessions with plenty of tea breaks in between.

I’ve used two solid colours for the warp, paired with a long-gradient yarn for the weft. Because it’s a cotton and acrylic blend rather than wool, the threads behave very differently—they don’t have that slight “stickiness” that wool naturally provides, so the weaving feels quite different.

My only regret is that I didn’t make the warp a little wider. I suspect I’ll have far more of the beautiful gradient yarn left over than I’d planned. Still, every project teaches me something, and that’s all part of the fun.

On my wheel this week

I’m nearing the end of spinning 200g of one of my favourite fibre blends in a colourway I’ve never tried before.

The combed tops came from Velvet Sixpence, and I picked them up at Wonderwool Wales earlier this year. Watching the colours blend together has been an absolute joy, and I’m especially pleased with how consistent the yarn has become as my spinning continues to improve.

I’m already wondering what it might become. A scarf? A waistcoat? Something else entirely? For now, I’ll just enjoy finishing the spin before making any decisions.

On my hook this week

This is where my inability to stick to just one project really becomes obvious.

Each crochet project lives in its own storage crate, making it easy to pick up whichever one suits the moment.

The largest is a cosy winter throw worked in beautiful undyed yarn from World of Wool. Unsurprisingly, it’s not getting as much attention as it deserves during the current heatwave—having a growing blanket spread across your lap isn’t the most appealing way to spend a warm afternoon!

Alongside that, I’m crocheting a lightweight crop top using a gorgeous indie-dyed sock yarn, which feels much more appropriate for the season.

I also have outlines prepared for two future designs, although I’m doing my best to resist starting them just yet.

Then there’s the project sitting firmly in the “naughty corner”: a Fair Isle knitted waistcoat that I started for myself last winter. The yarn is beautiful, but Fair Isle needs concentration, and somehow it doesn’t feel like a summer activity. I’m fairly sure it’ll find its way back into my hands once the evenings start drawing in again.

Other creative projects

It almost feels like a confession at this point, but yes, there are even more creative projects quietly waiting their turn.

Every now and then I enjoy beading, and thanks to my Mum I inherited enough beads to keep me occupied for several lifetimes. On those days when it’s simply too hot to work with wool, sitting outside in the shade with a tray of beads is a wonderfully relaxing alternative.

I also have a growing collection of smooth stones waiting to be wrapped and woven with the shorter lengths of yarn from my stash—a perfect way to use up leftovers while creating something completely different.

And finally, there’s my long-planned freeform crochet project. The yarn scraps are sorted, the sample motifs are ready, and the hessian bag they’re destined for is waiting patiently.

All I need now is the one thing every crafter wishes they had a little more of: time.

If you’d like to follow these projects as they evolve, I share regular updates every Work in Progress Wednesday on Facebook and Instagram. I’d love for you to join me there and see what I’ve been making each week.

Until next time, happy crafting!

Sue

Five Things I’ve Learned Since I Started Designing

In my last post, I wrote about the importance of fibre when I’m choosing what to make. This time, I want to explore some of the things I’ve learned since I started designing crochet patterns and weaving.

When I first began, I assumed that most of what I needed to learn would be about stitches, yarn, and techniques. While those things are certainly important, some of the biggest lessons have come from entirely unexpected directions.

1. Gauge Really Does Matter

Let’s start with gauge: that line in every good pattern that tells you how many stitches and rows should fit into a specific measurement. It’s also the line that many people are tempted to skip over.

As a designer, I tend to create items where gauge isn’t absolutely critical—blankets, throws, ponchos, shawls and wraps. If your tension is slightly different from mine, the finished item will still work. Even so, I always include gauge information because it helps people understand how the fabric should behave and gives the pattern a level of professionalism.

Where gauge becomes essential is in fitted garments. I don’t design those, but I do make them, and I always take the time to check my gauge first. It might feel like an extra step, but it’s far quicker than spending weeks making something that turns out to be two sizes too small—or large.

Weavers have their own version of gauge: picks per inch, which measures how many rows of weft yarn fit into an inch of cloth. I’ve learned that consistency is the key here. Keeping your picks per inch reasonably even throughout a project produces a balanced fabric without unexpectedly dense or loose areas. A small ruler tucked beside the loom can be surprisingly useful.

2. Writing a Pattern Is Harder Than Making the Item

Creating something with yarn and a hook is one skill. Explaining clearly how someone else can create the same thing is another entirely.

When I’m making a piece, I know what I mean and where I’m going next. The challenge comes when I have to write those decisions down in a way that makes sense to someone who has never seen the project before.

I’ve learned that good pattern writing is really about communication. Sometimes that means adding extra photographs. Sometimes it means drawing a chart to show stitch placement. Occasionally it means recording a short video demonstration.

When I first started designing, I never imagined I’d be learning how to edit photographs, create charts, or upload videos to YouTube. Yet all of those skills have become part of the process.

3. Simplicity Is Often More Difficult Than Complexity

One lesson that surprised me is that simple designs are not necessarily easier to create than complicated ones.

When a design contains lots of texture, colour changes, or intricate stitch patterns, small imperfections can disappear into the overall effect. A simple design has nowhere to hide. Every detail matters.

The same applies to pattern writing. Clear, straightforward instructions often take longer to write than complicated ones because they require careful thought and editing. I’ve learned that simplicity is usually the result of refinement rather than a lack of effort.

4. Photography Matters More Than I Expected

A beautiful design can easily be overlooked if the photographs don’t show it at its best.

I take all my photos using my phone and natural light. Early on, I discovered that artificial lighting can dramatically alter colours, especially pinks and oranges. Even now, I find myself watching the weather and the light, ready to dash outside with a project when conditions are just right.

I’ve also learned that bright sunshine isn’t always ideal. Soft, indirect light tends to reveal texture and colour far more accurately.

Perhaps the hardest lesson has been becoming comfortable in front of the camera myself. I’m much happier photographing yarn than being photographed wearing my own designs, but I’ve come to realise that people like seeing how a finished piece looks on a real person. It’s still a work in progress, but I’m getting there.

5. Everyone Crafts Differently

Perhaps the most important lesson of all is that there is no single “right” way to crochet or weave.

People hold their hooks differently. They tension yarn differently. They learn in different ways. Some love charts; others prefer written instructions. Some enjoy following a pattern exactly, while others use it as a starting point for their own creativity.

As a designer, that’s something I’ve learned to embrace. My job isn’t to tell people how they should make something. It’s to give them the tools and information they need to make it successfully in their own way.

Still Learning

Many of these lessons have come from books, workshops, fellow crafters, and sometimes from mistakes I’d rather not repeat. The funny thing about designing is that every new project teaches me something new.

That’s one of the reasons I enjoy it so much.

If you’re interested in quick tips and small lessons I’ve picked up along the way, I share a crafting tip every Monday on Facebook and Instagram. Why not pop over and take a look?

Happy crafting,

Sue

The Yarn Chooses the Project

In my last post, I wrote about why I choose to make the things I do. This time, I want to explore the part that yarn plays in generating ideas for a new project.

My stash has developed over time. Originally it was stored in a loose colour order and was full of leftover balls of yarn, gifted skeins, abandoned projects and those impulse purchases that simply couldn’t be left in the shop. As my business has evolved, from crochet design into weaving and now spinning my own yarn, my stash cupboard has changed too.

These days I organise everything by weight rather than colour. Much of the yarn I use is aran or double knit, while the yarn I spin myself usually comes out somewhere around double knit or worsted weight. I do, however, have a weakness for sock yarn. Those beautiful indie-dyed skeins and irresistible gradient cakes seem to find their way home with me far more often than I intend!

Organising my stash this way means that when an idea starts to form, I can reach straight for the right weight of yarn to sample with. The colour is less important than the structure and feel of the yarn for those first crochet samples. When weaving, I also tend to keep the warp to a consistent weight, while enjoying a little more freedom to experiment with different textures in the weft.

Since learning to spin, I have become something of a yarn snob. I spend a long time reading fibre content labels at shows and in yarn shops, looking for yarns with a higher proportion of natural fibres. They may cost a little more, but I find them a joy to work with.

More often than not, it is the fibre itself that suggests the project. A basket of wool or alpaca immediately makes me think of cosy shawls, wraps or throws for winter evenings, while bamboo, linen or cotton seem to call out for lighter designs such as picnic blankets or airy summer cover-ups. Sometimes I don’t choose the project at all – the yarn quietly chooses it for me.

If you’re as fascinated by fibres as I am, you might enjoy my weekly Tuesday “Focus on Fibre” posts on Instagram and Facebook. There is always something new to discover about the materials we love to work with.

What fibre do you find impossible to resist?  Whatever fibre you choose, I hope it brings you as much inspiration as it brings me.

Happy crafting,

Sue

Why I Make What I Make

In my last post, I wrote about mistakes. This time, I want to explore why I choose to make the things I do.

At its heart, I think I make because I need something for my hands to do. My family laugh because I can rarely sit down, whether alone or with other people, without pulling a project bag onto my lap. I like to joke that if my hands are busy with yarn then I can’t be eating biscuits, although we all know that isn’t entirely true.

My patterns tend to focus on functional items using simple shapes with plenty of texture because those are the projects I most enjoy making: scarves, shawls, cushions, hats and bags. I’m always drawn to pieces that are practical but still interesting to work on.

To reach a finished design, I usually create a collection of small samples to test stitches, textures and colour combinations. Some makers unravel their swatches and reuse the yarn immediately, but I prefer to keep mine until the project is complete. Afterwards, because I try to work with as little waste as possible, the samples often find their way into a freeform crochet piece instead.

During the lockdowns, I also began exploring weaving, starting with an inkle loom that my husband made for me from scraps of wood found in his shed. Originally, I simply wanted to weave sturdy straps for bags, and the inkle loom does that beautifully. I use mercerised cotton almost exclusively because the colours are vibrant and the fibre stands up well to the tension of weaving.

Once I had been bitten by the weaving bug, I moved on to a rigid heddle loom. This is where I allow myself even more freedom to experiment. I like working with the fibres I already have available and seeing where they lead me. Most of the time I sit down to weave without a fixed plan and simply enjoy the process. Sometimes that results in a beautiful scarf or shawl — still keeping to those simple shapes I love — and sometimes it produces an uneven piece of cloth that ends up cut apart and reused elsewhere.

Then there is spinning. I began with a drop spindle and eventually progressed to an Ashford Traveller 3 spinning wheel. Spinning has opened up another layer of creativity for me. I choose fibres and colours simply because they appeal to me, even though they often transform completely once spun. I’m still learning constantly, but I can now produce a yarn that is not only usable, but genuinely enjoyable to crochet and weave with.

In the end, everything comes back to the same simple thing: keeping my hands busy. The difference now is that I can do that using yarns I have spun myself, textures I have chosen deliberately, and fabrics that have evolved through exploration and play.

Whatever you decide to make, happy crafting

Sue

Making Mistakes

In my last post, I wrote about learning and unlearning. This time, I want to explore mistakes because, to echo the old Sinatra song, “I’ve had a few.”

The trouble with social media, I find, is that perfection is held up as the standard to which we should all aspire. Real life is rather different and, certainly in my case, full of mistakes. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, although I’ve experienced both sides of the argument.

My mum, who taught me the basics when I was a child, always worked from patterns and took enormous care to follow the instructions to the letter. Mistakes were simply not allowed, and the whole process often seemed slightly stressful. Much later, when I enrolled on a City and Guilds Design and Embroidery course at the local art college, I discovered the joy of experimentation. Trying something out simply for the pleasure of seeing what happened was positively encouraged. Even the samples that turned out “badly” could be cut up and incorporated into the next piece of work. The whole experience was incredibly freeing, and I’ve never really looked back.

Now, before we get too carried away, I should say that, in my experience, there are two kinds of mistakes in a project: those I can live with, and those I can’t.

The joy of crochet is that you can put a stitch almost anywhere, so if I discover one stitch fewer than I should have across a row, the answer may simply be to add one discreetly in a suitable place — no drama required. If, however, the mistake is glaringly obvious, then the only real option is to frog the work (so called because of the sound the yarn supposedly makes as it is ripped back to the offending row). Naturally, these errors are usually discovered only after at least twelve inches of progress, which makes the frogging process particularly painful. Still, it’s better than finishing a project only to spend the rest of your life staring at the howling error in the middle of it. 

Colour choices are a whole other category of mistake. Sometimes combinations simply don’t work, or you are asked to use colours for a commission that fail to fill your heart with joy. Of course, not everyone agrees on what makes a pleasing palette, and experimenting with unfamiliar colour combinations is always an adventure — and usually a learning curve as well.

Sampling helps prevent too many disasters. It is far less painful to work out a pattern on a six-inch square than to launch into a large new design and hope for the best. All those samples — some that later became larger projects and some that never developed any further — eventually find their way into a crate. When I have enough, they become the foundation for freeform crochet pieces.

Weaving and spinning are, in some ways, even more forgiving. If my spinning turns out a little uneven, I simply label it an “art yarn” and carry on. The weaving I enjoy most leans towards freeform as well, using leftover bits and pieces or inserting random stripes of open work. Anything goes, really. I weave for the pleasure of handling the yarn, and I tend to avoid strict patterns where every small mistake immediately announces itself.

That said, I do sometimes end up with woven pieces that don’t hang quite right once they come off the loom, or whose colours don’t quite sing together, or which simply turn out shorter than intended. Some people might call these failures or mistakes, but I prefer to think of them as challenges. When I have enough of them, I weave them together into a double-thickness throw — perfect for cold winter evenings.

Perhaps that’s the real lesson about mistakes in crafting: very little is ever truly wasted. Even the things that don’t work out as planned usually teach us something, lead us somewhere unexpected, or become part of something new later on.

Happy crafting.

Sue

Learning and Unlearning

In my last post, I wrote about texture. This time, I want to explore the skills I’ve learned over the years—and the habits I’ve gradually let go.

My mum taught me to knit and crochet when I was around nine years old. My dad still has the first wonky piece of knitting I made—later fashioned into an envelope for his cufflinks. It’s no surprise that I still hold my knitting needles the way my mum did, but my crochet style has evolved. As I got older, I came across a book that showed how to control yarn tension through the non-dominant hand, and the difference was immediate—my stitches became more even, more consistent.

A quick look at platforms like TikTok or YouTube shows just how many variations there are. Every crocheter holds their hook and yarn differently. What I’ve learned is that there’s no single “correct” way—only the way that works for you.

One lesson that stayed with me came from a Christmas project I took on rather ambitiously: a knitted twinset for my mother-in-law. It took an age to complete, but she loved it. A few days later, when we visited, she was wearing it—and it looked even better than I remembered. She had blocked it. I had never blocked anything before and hadn’t realised that something as simple as soaking and shaping could transform a finished piece so completely. That was a turning point: a small technique, but a lasting lesson.

During the pandemic lockdowns, I learned Tunisian crochet—partly from a book, but mostly by watching Toni Lipsey on YouTube. It’s a relatively accessible craft, especially if you already crochet, yet I often hear people say, “Oh, I don’t know how to do that,” as though that’s the end of the conversation. If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s not to stop there. Curiosity is often more important than confidence.

Spinning was another step into the unfamiliar. I started with a drop spindle—an inexpensive way to begin—and again relied on books and videos. But there comes a point where guidance really matters, and for that I’m very grateful to Zoe at Old School Crafts Minting, who helped me build both skill and confidence, whether using a spindle or an Ashford Traveller wheel.

More recently, a visit to the Wonderwool Wales festival left me feeling inspired all over again. I’ve been curious about more freeform weaving for a while, and came home with an experimental kit for weaving on a circular ring. It’s far from perfect, but that’s part of the appeal. It’s also a satisfying way to use up shorter lengths of yarn that might otherwise sit forgotten.

Looking back, the most valuable thing I’ve learned is to be willing—to try, to experiment, and to accept that not everything has to be perfect, whether it’s your first attempt or your twentieth. I’ve learned that instructions are a starting point, not a set of rules, and that developing your own style takes time.

What I’m still learning—perhaps more slowly—is what to let go of: comparing my work to others, giving too much space to my inner critic, and starting new projects before finishing the ones already in progress.

“I don’t do this the way I used to…”—and that, I think, is the point.

Happy crafting

Sue

Texture and Structure

In my last post, I wrote about colour. This time, I want to explore texture and structure—the physical qualities that shape how a piece looks, feels, and is ultimately used.

I mainly crochet using commercial yarns, which tend to fall into two broad categories: smooth and predictable, or highly textured. I almost always choose the former. I’ve realised this is because I like to be in control of where the texture sits within my work. When the yarn itself is very textured, that choice is already made for me.

Those heavily textured yarns are often acrylic, which I increasingly try to avoid. That said, in the spirit of reducing waste, I’ll happily use any yarn in the weft of my weaving. In that context, unpredictability becomes a strength—thick-and-thin textures can add real interest and depth.

An exception to my preference for control is my own handspun yarn. As I’m still developing that skill, my yarn is naturally a little uneven—but that unevenness is part of its charm. Recently, I spun some combed tops with sari silk, and the resulting slubs were beautiful. Yarns like that feel best suited to weaving, where their texture can really shine.

When I do choose smooth commercial yarns, the texture comes from the stitches themselves. With a fine mercerised cotton such as Scheepjes Sugar Rush, I can create detailed surface interest using popcorn stitches, back loops, and post stitches. I often turn to Grace Fearon’s designs for inspiration—her mandalas are intricate and absorbing, and I enjoy making them simply for the pleasure of the process.

I also use a lot of gradient yarns in 3-ply or fingering weight. These naturally lend themselves to more open structures—spiders, fans, and chain spaces—that create a soft drape. The result is usually a shawl or wrap: something light, elegant, and easy to wear on a cooler evening.

For Tunisian crochet, I tend to reach for a DK weight yarn. Here, texture might come from bobbles or a honeycomb stitch pattern, offering anything from bold definition to subtle surface detail.

Aran weight yarn is another favourite—partly because it grows quickly, but also because of its versatility. Worked densely, it creates a warm, textured fabric perfect for blankets. Worked more openly, the same yarn can produce a shawl with surprising drape and movement.

Texture and structure are not just design choices—they influence how a piece feels in the hand, how it behaves when worn, and how it fits into everyday life. For me, they are as important as colour, and just as personal.

Happy crafting